Heaven

We needed a break after our harrowing drive across rugged mountains... in the rain... at night... with no shoes.  Luckily we were only a couple hours from Heaven (aka Semuc Champey).  Heaven is a little place deep in Central Guatemala.  It is made up of a wide natural bridge that spans the Cahabòn River in a tight valley.  The river is powerful this time of year and due to all the rain it was a left-over-milk-in-your-bowl-after-cocoa-puffs kinda brown.  It's not exactly a tourist destination in itself.  Up on the natural bridge it's a whole different story.  There are tons of crystal clear pools and waterfalls that are fed from natural springs in the surrounding mountains.  Neither words nor pictures can describe the beauty. 

When we arrived at Heaven, we were the only ones there.  We swam in the pools, jumped off the small waterfalls, and watched the sky darken.  As we swam, I said to Kaytie, "I want to live here.  No, I WILL live here.  Wait a minute... I DO live here!" And that is exactly what this trip is about.

We went back to the visitor center and set up camp.  While we had the pools to ourselves, we had to share the camping spot.  There was a group of 5 guys who were working on the septic system at the park who were currently staying in what used to be the dinning area of the visitor center.  We chatted with them for a bit and they seemed like nice enough guys.  After a while, Kaytie and Brett whipped up some sort of delicious chicken vegi rice dish with fresh pineapple on the side in what used to be the gift shop.  Towards the end of the meal, I suggested that we go over and offer them some of our pineapple.  Initially Kaytie did not approve.  Anyone who knows her shouldn’t be surprised.  She loves her food way too much to let it go to some strangers, friends or husband.  Then we started to wonder, what if they are the Three Nephites?  (Don’t get the reference? Check out this wiki article or even better, read this book.)  How would we feel about not sharing our pineapple with the Three Nephites?  Kaytie finally relinquished some of the delicious pineapple and Brett delivered it.  Turns out those Spanish lessons did the trick because he stayed and talked with them for quite a while.  When he finally came back, we asked him what they had talked about that whole time.  Apparently they were so grateful for the pineapple that they repayed Brett by insisting on teaching him all the good swear words in Spanish and Quiche.   Turns out they are probably not the Three Nephites.

Kaytie and I slept great aside from one 45 minute ordeal with Kaytie trying (and barely succeeding) to find the best way to go to the bathroom while it was raining.  Brett however, had a less comfortable night.  As we were hanging up a hammock for him I noticed a single strand of spider web dropping down next to what was the planned hammock post.  I looked up to see the most interesting web and scariest spider I have ever seen.  I decided against telling Brett.  We had already ruled out sleeping on the ground due to the many cockroaches and ants we observed during dinner and I didn’t want him to have to make that decision.  But sure enough, about 5 minutes later I hear him say, “Look at that!”  I turned to see his flashlight on the single strand of web.  “Do yourself a favor and don’t look up,” I said quickly.  Then as if on cue, the beam of light slowly climbed up the strand until it fell on the super arachnid.  Brett jumped back even though he was already 20 feet away.  Mid air he used some strong, yet totally justified words and I think I could actually see his skin crawling. 

The next morning the spider was gone and Brett was still alive so we hiked to the look out to get a different perspective of the whole place.  The beauty of it all is really incredible.  The steep green valley walls, the terraced pools with their calm crystal clear water and the power of the actual river as it submerges underground combine in an all-you-can-take-in buffet of natural wonders.  From way up at the lookout, you feel a little separated from it all, but when you are down in the pools, it’s almost too much to take in.  So naturally, after the steep climb up, we booked it back down to go for a dip.  But not before making a friend.  After breakfast, we graciously let a park dog eat all our banana bread crumbs off the ground.  We didn’t realize how much it meant to him until we noticed that he followed us all the way up to the lookout.  We thought it was pretty incredible, seeing as much of the climb is on a narrow wooden ladder and staircase.  We named him Seggy in reference to the verb “to follow” in Spanish.  On the way down, we descended some more steep ladder-stairs. (For our Hawaii friends, it was very reminiscent of Stairway to Heaven in Kaneohe.)  After not seeing Seggy for a while, we assumed he had to go back the way he came. Then about 500 feet down, we saw him in the trail waiting for us.  Turns out he knows the fast way.  The rest of the descent he would walk ahead for a bit, then go off the trail and stop and look back to see if we’d follow.  We never did, and he would always be waiting for us at some point further along.

We made it to the pools and swam in each of them, descending down or jumping off the small waterfalls as we went.  I could have stayed there all day, but alas, other awesome places were calling.  Next up: Tikal.